Australian Gourmet Traveller 2013 Restaurant Guide

After long flying the mod-British flag, Red cabbage is skewing more mod and less Brit. A subtle menu restructure introduces “snacks”, ideal for mulling the major menu decisions over, while “Mt Claremont Farmer’s Market”- a seasonal assembly of vegetables given a bit of modern-kitchen love – is an attraction in itself. Technique and serving sizes have been refined, yet the spirit of generosity remains. The crunch of Waldorf salad played against plump Manjimup marron proves opposites attract; smoky beans and chorizo ravioli lend Spanish panache to the partridge. Yet it’s not a case of throwing the baby vegetables out with the bath water. The cosy, gently quirky room and fun desserts along the lines of lemon meringue pie speak of a restaurant comfortable in its own skin, a claim duly supported by accomplished service and well chosen wines.

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