Australian Gourmet Traveller 2012 Restaurant Guide

The youthful Red Cabbage patch kids deliver a fine yet fun dining experience at odds with the restaurant’s drab office block surrounds. Freshly shucked oysters – six ways, including tempura-fried and dolloped with nahm jim – remain a popular curtain-raiser, although Asian- skewed entrees such as pork belly with a watermelon, jamon Serrano and black bean salad give them a run for their money. Main courses are largely meaty, many offering several iterations of a particular beast. Partridge, for instance, materialises as a juicy leg and speck-wrapped breast served alongside a small pie filled with braised meat and mushroom. Hold your applause till flavour-laden desserts that reflect the kitchen’s British roots, in particular an English sweets plate with wee sticky date pudding, treacle tart and roly-poly scale models. Personable, attentive service round off this most proper of nights out.

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