Gourmet Traveller 2014


Slaw, ketchup and pastrami? Are those geezers in the kitchen from Yorkshire or New York? Pithy dish names such as these betray a burgeoning interest in American flavours, but they hint little at the deeply technical cooking that awaits.

Quail Caesar salad, for instance, is a classic retold using lettuce gel, gooey egg yolk, cheesy custard and a ball of golden fried quail. Marron remains a permanent menu fixture. One of its more recent incarnations stars wasabi-spiked mayonnaise, a wafer of salty salmon skin and spongy black soy gel.

While some well-meaning staff might occasionally require prompting on the intricacies of such meticulously arranged dishes, the deliciousness of smoky venison contrasted against crunchy roast macadamia nuts speaks for itself. Then there’s the outrĂ© drinks and dining room – further proof that Red Cabbage is happy to continue walking a little on the wild side.

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