Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2010

Hearty meets heart at this large, modern, atmospheric fine diner. Born in the North of England, chef Scott O’Sullivan displays a bias towards meaty mains, rich braises and beautifully assembled pies. However, not everything on the menu is a rib-sticker: rockmelon granita gets the sweet/chill salvo just right, and there’s a winning finesse in oysters offered in several ways, including those poached in a peppery lobster bisque.

But O’Sullivan can restrain himself for only so long – his tempura battered oyster sits on a bed of pea puree with one perfectly cooked chip and a chilli Japanese mayo. A rich braise of wagyu shin showcases a preoccupation with pastry, but we’d like a bit more fat on our pork belly with fondant potato, quail egg and cider broth, please.

Desserts include a trio of white chocolate brulee, dark chocolate pyramid and chocolate spring rolls and creamed rice.  A real treat.

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