The West Australian Good Food Guide 2011

17/20 Two Stars

Chef/owner Scott O’Sullivan’s original food is at the higher end of the modern Aussie repertoire and partner Hazel O’Sullivan’s front of house runs like a Prius – quietly, efficiently and economically. In the three years since they’ve opened, the O’Sullivans have done much to improve the decor and make it a comfortable, stylish restaurant.

Who isn’t doing pork belly these days? But if everyone did it as well as O’Sullivan, we’d be a one food group nation. A small, well-rendered square of pork was splashed with chilli caramel and topped with a perky and crunchy fried prawn wonton – it was the bold and the beautiful.

A braised beef cheek suet pudding was as British as a bulldog. It came with a textural cauliflower champ, seared scallops and slices of house-made chorizo scattered around the plate. Brilliant food. Puddings are similarly top notch. Wine service is among the most professional we’ve encountered. The by-the-glass wine list is a cracker. Pity more restaurants don’t spend as much time and thought on theirs. Red Cabbage is one of the city’s best restaurants.

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