Western Australian Good Food Guide 2012

Rob Broadfield

17/20 Two Stars

One of Perth’s finest; this establishment deserves all accolades. Owner/chef Scott O’Sullivan has a passion and it shows. The food is imaginative without being overly complicated, and the produce is well-sourced. There is every attention to detail and staff know their stuff. The setting is intimate, with the fashionable muted colours of browns and greys, much improved from our last visit: you forget it is in an office block just off the freeway. Hiramasa kingfish sashimi was delicate, subtle and topped with a finely tuned micro salad of chilli, ginger and coriander. Venison can be tricky and not often done well. Here it’s tender, moist and cooked medium rare and plated with beetroot puree and beetroot ravioli, a great flavour combo. A road base of trendy chocolate soil completed the dish. Quince crumble was a highlight. Two big roasted syrupy quince halves topped with rhubarb puree. Then a small amount of crumble mixture with whole roasted hazelnuts and a good dollop of mascarpone to cut through the sweetness. O’Sullivan is one of our best and brightest young chefs and his food is truly recherché.

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